Words by Megan Greaney
If you’re planning your maiden voyage to Japan, there’s a good chance your itinerary is centred around Tokyo and Kyoto. Mine did (spoiler: you’ve chosen well), so, here’s my personal guide to what’s worth your time, some handy tips picked up along the way, and a few recommendations I pass on to everybody planning a visit.
Tokyo
The buzzing capital is an absolute must when visiting Japan and in fact, it wouldn’t be a waste if you spent your entire trip here.
Where to stay in Tokyo:
You’ll be in one of the most vibrant metropolises in the world, so you might as well get amongst it and stay in the heart of it all. We stayed in Shinjuku which is Tokyo’s pumping entertainment district; it was a short stroll to reach blocks of Izakaya bars, nightclubs, ramen spots, vinyl bars and more.
Top tip: business hotels are the perfect places to stay in Tokyo when you want to keep costs low but have access to everything you need. The rooms are no-fuss and VERY compact, but they’re cleaned daily, come with free toiletry essentials, and employ concierge staff.
The best things to do in Tokyo:
- If you’re visiting during cherry blossom season (March – April), Tokyo is an amazing place to take in the blooms! Due to the popularity of the sakura parks, some of them require you to purchase a timed ticket – but Ueno Park was free and available to access all day.
- Drop into Jazz Spot Intro near Shinjuku for a super fun and fairly cheap night out. An entry fee of 1000 Yen (around $6 USD) gets you a drink and a night of great live music. It’s most often an open jam, so jazz musos turn up to have a go and the vibe is very loose. The owner is also a character, splitting his time between the stage to join in on a tune, and the bar to sling drinks and small snacks. Try the plum wine!
Top tip: Golden-Gai is a famous district within Shinjuku, which is worth wandering through to take in the narrow lantern-lit alleyways, but I wouldn’t recommend eating and drinking there unless you’re willing to pay tourist trap prices, surrounded by – well, other tourists.
- Visit the Meiji Shrine. This beautiful site is in the middle of Shibuya, the very heart of Tokyo. The shrine is surrounded by an expansive forest that was planted about 100 years ago, and it’s the perfect place to experience Shinto spirituality and enjoy a moment of tranquillity amidst the bustle of Tokyo.
- Enjoy a traditional omakase meal, which is a multi-course, chef’s choice banquet – in Tokyo, many of these take place at tiny, hole-in-the-wall (or underground) spots, where you’ll sit around a bar that only fits about ten people. Be warned, the chef might cheekily decide to test your palate! Our first course was a whole baby quid and a snail – both served cold. I managed to get it down with the help of my plum wine, but the chef obviously noticed my struggle as we had much more easily palatable food after that.
Top tip: to find the best, traditional sushi and omakase, translate your request into Japanese characters first and then input into Google maps. A friend gave us this tip and it was life changing! Many of the more traditional restaurants won’t show up when you search in English.
- Indulge in a roving feast at Tsukiji Outer Market. While mainly a seafood market, there’s so much more to try, including buttery wagyu skewers, dumplings, juicy strawberry desserts, tempura and mochi.
- Take a day trip to Mt Fuji, which is about two hours from Tokyo by bus. We booked a tour which included stops at a couple of vantage points, and I’d definitely recommend this. We stopped on Mt Fuji itself (the time of year you visit will determine how high up you can travel, as snow often closes off the highest stations), then visited the nearby town of Hakone, where we took in every angle of Fuji from a cruise across Lake Ashi and from the summit of Mt Hakone, reached via cable car.
Kyoto
For a taste of traditional Japan, you have to visit Kyoto.
Where to stay in Kyoto:
Kyoto is much smaller and more relaxed than Tokyo. The area is mostly flat and none of the main attractions are very far apart, so hiring a bike is the best way to get around. If you stay anywhere in the vicinity of Nishiki Market, you’ll be in the heart of everything.
Top tip: If you’re travelling between Tokyo and Kyoto, the bullet train (shinkansen) is the absolute coolest way to do it. Arrive early for your trip to allow time to find your platform, and stock up on some snacks for the ride.
The best things to do in Kyoto:
- Wander through Nishiki Market. There are two main parts to this massive marketplace: food, and everything else. The food part can get hectically crowded, but it’s worth dealing with to try some yummy bites. The shops here are also the perfect places to pick up quality souvenirs and keepsakes, like homewares, tea, fans, and clothes.
Top tip: clothes shopping in Tokyo can be difficult, particularly if you’re browsing the designer boutiques or vintage stores in Harajuku (everything is tiny). I had more luck in the bigger chain stores, but I loved the boutiques in Nishiki Market for unique pieces I’d never find back home.
- Visit Pontocho Alley. Want to feel like you’re inside a Miyazaki film? This is the place for it. A charming, lantern-lit alleyway alongside the river, with traditional timber architecture and packed with restaurants and bars.
- Take a beat to relax on the banks of crystal-clear Kamo River.
- Head to Gion, the heritage Geisha district. Here you can find historic tea houses and indulge in traditional omakase.
- See the Golden Temple, surely the most picturesque site in Kyoto. A World Heritage Site, enjoy the zen philosophy of the beautiful temple building, surrounding ‘mirror pond’, and greenery.
- Take a daytrip to Arashiyama – OK, this was one place we actually had to get to by bus, and it was absolutely worth it for the stunning natural scenery. Explore the famous bamboo grove, visit Ōkōchi Sansō Villa at the top of the hill and enjoy a quiet moment in the gardens, then take a rowboat out on the river. Oh, and get a green tea soft serve before you leave!
I could honestly rave about Japan, even the limited parts that I’ve visited, for pages. Whether you’re visiting for the first or the dozenth time, the major attractions of Tokyo and Kyoto have so much to see and do (and eat!). Get a taste for tradition and innovation, vibrant city life and relaxed sight-seeing, all in these two incredible cities.